Removing Grips for Re-Use

The grip removal tool looks like this:




It's a piece of spring steel with a narrow channel stamped into it. The metal is .105" thick, or just over a tenth of an inch.

I begin by mounting the club in a shaft-clamp with the grip end of the club pointing down. This is important, as it facilitates the dribbling of grip solvent down the tool and under the grip. Put a pan under the grip to catch the drips.




The next step is to dip the end of the tool in grip solvent. I use a naptha-based solvent but mineral spirits works just as well. The solvent lubricates the tool as well as being the catalyst which reactivates the underlying grip tape.

Golfsmith recommends turning the grip mouth back on itself, creating a double-layer which, according to Golfsmith, reduces the likelihood of tearing. I have found that this makes it much more likely that you'll tear the grip. Instead, exercise patience, leave the mouth of the grip alone, pull back on it with thumb and forefinger, and slide the tool under the grip, like this (make sure you get the tool between the tape and the grip):




This next step is important. What causes the grip tape to release is using grip solvent to break it loose. The tool facilitates not only the breaking of the grip loose, but also provides a channel for the grip solvent to travel down the inside of the grip. It also lubricates the tool, which allows it to more easily slide under the grip.

I've found that the best way to apply grip solvent is to use a plastic bottle with a very small tip. I use one that formerly held hair-clipper oil. I use it like so:




I start by squirting some grip solvent down the grip beside the tool, as well as dribbling it down the channel stamped in the metal:




As I work the tool down under the grip, I also twist it around the grip, breaking loose the adhesion. I'll do this maybe two or three times on the way down to the end, depending on how well the solvent is working.




I apply even more solvent:




Eventually (this takes me about a minute), the tool worked around under the grip and pushed all the way to the end. I make sure I use copious amounts of grip solvent to do this. Then, when it's loose, I'll simply twist and pull the grip off the end of the club:




Then I'll remove the tool, and pull the grip off the rest of the way:




Then it's only a matter of cleaning things up. I used to use a grip tape removal tool that scrapes off the tape residue from the shaft. I've since found it's easier and faster to just peel it off, after drying off the gunk with a paper towel:




I'll use a long metal brush (the best I've found is from Golfworks) to clean out the grip. First I'll swish some solvent around in the grip; then I'll put the brush in, scrubbing it out (takes about 10 seconds). The key, I've found, is to do this right away, before the residue and debris inside the grip have a chance to dry out and resist my efforts.

Then, finally, I'll pour a little more grip solvent into the grip, swish it out, and it's good as new. The smuck/solvent that comes out I filter through a coffee filter, and re-use the solvent.




Finally, here's the grip I removed, none the worse for wear:




I've had great success using this technique, usually getting the grip off in just a couple of minutes. The grip is completely re-useable. I have done this with rubber grips and cord grips. The cord grips are a little harder to work the tool around, but are still quite easy.

The key is a bit of patience, and a liberal amount of solvent.

Notes:
Many want to know whether Winn slip-on grips might be removed the same way. I did manage to remove one intact using this method, but it's very difficult to get the blade under the grip; I also left a lot of tape inside the grip, which is very difficult to remove. I've also wrecked a few doing this (they were for practice--I was replacing the grips anyway). My conclusion is to fuggedaboutit.

It seems to me that you could purchase a piece of spring steel or something similar and create a grip remover; at least one person has successfully used a small-diameter rod about 3mm in diameter, with the end blunted.