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The Shop
The pictures shown below are "clickable" for a large size.
The first picture, above, shows the bench arrangement I've come to believe is the
most efficient given my space and assembly needs. Everything I need to assemble a club
is in this area, from the frequency meter to clublength ruler to swingweight scale to a rotary tool
for cutting graphite shafts.
From the end of the workbench, you can see how the spinjig used to align shafts is
positioned to benefit from the straight lines drawn on the bench and clubmaking
rule.
The frequency meter setup.
Managing shafts is a pain; I built this shaft rack roughly from plans in one of
the Maltby books, adding casters on the bottom for easy movement.
The ferrule-turning station. The linen belt on the sander allows for smoothing the
ferrule-hosel junction.
The shaft cutting arrangement I use for graphite shafts. The roto-tool has a nylon
cutoff wheel; I've rigged up a dust collector from an old metal vacuum extender,
attaching a shopvac to it. Both the roto-tool and vac are plugged into the
outlet strip; turning on the red button starts them both.
This picture shows the GS Professional shaft puller, and a different
club clamp. The flag is a memento of RSG-Atlanta 2001, the rec.sport.golf
held in July of 2001.
Above shows a Neufinder, a device used for finding and marking the spines and
neutral bending points (NBPs) on shafts. The gauge on the left is accurate to
1/1000th of an inch, allowing for exceedingly accurate determination of spines
and NBPs.
Duelling sanders? The one on the left is for tip prepping graphite shafts; the one
on the right for steel shafts.
A Golfworks "Golf Club Machine" is used to measure and adjust
loft and lie of irons.
Sometimes, even after prepping, shafts won't fit into the hosel. The accepted way
to deal with that is to carefully drill the hosel bore a bit larger. I also use
the drill press setup for changing taper-tip hosels to parallel-tip hosels so that
I can frequency-match irons.
My gripping and shipping station. I've tried the expensive gripping jigs, and keep
coming back to a simple shaft clamp with the clubhead aligned with the edge of my
workbench. The solvent catch-tray I made out of a drywall mud pan and a piece of
aluminum bar stock. I also use this area for pulling shafts and drilling out
clubhead hosels.
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Document Last Modified: June 1, 2006
Copyright © 2006
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